View Full Version : Car problem help :(
Spasm
03-04-2010, 11:58 AM
Ok guyz maybe some of you know a thing or two about cars. Got a problem, here it is tell me what you think, any help appreciated.
94 Acura Integra LS 140k miles, Misfirng, Bogging Down, Backfire as engine is getting warmer. When the engine is cold it will almost never do this. Usually after it's warmed up, on accelerating the engine will misfire like crazy. It does this the most in 2nd gear, starting about 2200 rpms, all the way up. The only way to make it stop is to let off on the throttle to about a eighth of the way down, then it will quit misfiring and regain it's power. But if I was to hit the gas hard again it would just start misfiring again. It does it in other gears as well but it is the most noticeable in 2nd. Another thing, If I do not let off of the throttle it will eventually just backfire. I have replaced the mass airflow sensor, fuel pump, plugs, rotor cap, plug wires, fuel filter and fuel p regulater. It is throwing no check engine light codes. I have taken it to different mechanics and I keep getting told different things, and to be honest I really do no want to just keep replacing parts until I eventually fix it. I was told that it is the crankshaft position sensor now, but before I go out and spend more money I would like some different opinions on it. Thanks for your time guys.
XxMastagunzxX
03-04-2010, 12:38 PM
Your catalytic converter could be stopped up. It could be the crankshaft position sensor. See if you can find a used one. Maybe an o2 sensor problem? Also check your ignition coil and Ignition control module.
Andrew_Pavlik
03-04-2010, 03:28 PM
Umm, it's hard to make suggestions without seeing it but I'll try anyway and if it's not showing up with any codes chances are it's NOT a sensor.
It could be something simple as a leak in your air intake or cold air is getting into the exhaust some how, so a leak there too.
This does does sound like you have some sort of exhaust type of problem.
In my opionon you should try the cheapest simpliest solution and then work your way up.
What is funny is that I ruled everything you did out when you first started talking becuase none of those would cause the issue only to happen at particular speeds or gears. The computer or another component controls the timing of the firing when the engine is running. Because the problem is misfiring and is being caused by the plugs not activating at the correct time and the fact that it only occurs sometimes instantly says that it is a computer problem. Replace, flash or upgrade your computer and it should be fine. (I am assuming you do not have a turbo). If it was a mechanical problem then it would occur at all speeds and all gears or would be completely random as the part effected was required for the operation. The only other possibility would be the head but that is unlikely as you do not have vtech and therefore mechanically your head functions the same at all speeds. The timing of your piston firing can be reprogrammed in the computer somehow it is not working correctly or got corrupted. It will not show an error b/c OBDII only looks for censor errors and does a bad job at actually reporting real problems. The fact that it does not show any errors also suggests it is a computer problem.
Also he already has worked his way up as b/c the places he went to had no idea where to start they just started from the bottom and went to the top. Most car repair places simply go from least expensive to most as their solution to any problem the computer can not tell them the answer to. However if you apply logic and understanding you can avoid replacing parts that should have nothing to do with your problem given all data available. Based off the data available and not even counting what he has already tired my first thought is the computer.
XxMastagunzxX
03-04-2010, 04:22 PM
I'm 99% sure it's not the computer.
Your 99% sure it is not the computer yet you have no idea what the problem is?
Even without knowing what he has tried already I was 90% sure it was the computer. After what he has tired already the only option left IS the computer so I am now 99.99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 999% sure that is the cause.
The normal solution to this problem is to check/replace: oil change,air filter,pcv valve,plugs,wires,distributor cap and rotor,bottle of injector cleaner,fuel filter,check fluids
This problem is and can be caused by using low quality fuel when the engine computer is set for high octane (computer can be reprogrammed to any fule level you want) or if your fuel is too high quality.
So one cheep solution would be to use the opposite fuel you use now.
Have you had the valve timings and cam timings ect checked? I am assuming so as that is the problem area...
This thread the guy has basically the same problem: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2319046
XxMastagunzxX
03-04-2010, 05:54 PM
Tell us what the problem is when you find out.
Kavinsky
03-04-2010, 06:52 PM
Maybe the choke is set too high or the cars Air to fuel mixture is too lean (too much fuel and too little air) and is causing the backfires.
Which was the same thing happening with Leno's Mercedes 300 SL Gullwing when they put it on the Dyno.
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras/extras/jays-dyno-room/
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/segment/restoration-blog/update-1955-mercedes-300sl-gullwing-coupe/
Mind you I don't think your car has a lamb skin diaphragm.
Spasm
03-04-2010, 11:15 PM
Your 99% sure it is not the computer yet you have no idea what the problem is?
Even without knowing what he has tried already I was 90% sure it was the computer. After what he has tired already the only option left IS the computer so I am now 99.99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 999% sure that is the cause.
The normal solution to this problem is to check/replace: oil change,air filter,pcv valve,plugs,wires,distributor cap and rotor,bottle of injector cleaner,fuel filter,check fluids
This problem is and can be caused by using low quality fuel when the engine computer is set for high octane (computer can be reprogrammed to any fule level you want) or if your fuel is too high quality.
So one cheep solution would be to use the opposite fuel you use now.
Have you had the valve timings and cam timings ect checked? I am assuming so as that is the problem area...
This thread the guy has basically the same problem: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2319046
The normal solution to this problem is to check/replace: oil change,air filter,pcv valve,plugs,wires,distributor cap and rotor,bottle of injector cleaner,fuel filter,check fluids
Yea I have done almost everything on that list, actually every single thing except pcv valve, whats annoying is no one knows, they are all clueless. I am not using low quality fuel, I was told water in the fuel, or lower octane, I have been putting nothing but premo in it for the past few weeks. The only thing that makes less sense for it to be the computer is the fact that it will not do it until the engine warms up. I take that back it may still be doing it, but its no where near noticeable. It will not backfire unless I just jam the throttle down when its misfirng, then about 10 seconds later it will backfire. It does do it in other gears, but because the car is accelerating so much in 2nd I feel it alot more there, and when it starts misfiring, it will literally throw me forward in the seat, almost as if I had hit the breaks. -- thats on a bad day. Whatever it is, it is heat related. Once the engine warms up good, say at a few stoplights back to back, it will start doing it, every time. Again thanks for your help guys
Oh and the thread you linked, that guy is talking about reving the engine up sitting, my car will not do it unless it is under load. It revs just fine all the time, even if it just misfired, If i was to hit the clutch in and rev it, it would rev without a problem, its only under load and heat really.
Kavinsky
03-05-2010, 01:24 AM
Premo? if thats higher than what the engines rated for you are probably doing damage to the engine.
Premo when the cars rated for regular does nothing, it does not increase hp,
It's wasteful and the higher burn rate increases the presure on the engine parts (I'm not 100% sure)
and will probably make the problem worse.
Also make sure the oil and the transmition fluid match up with what they say to use in the owners manual
chemical wise, oil is not just this one kinda flud its viscosity based on its use and the age of the car.
And computers are not faultless, chances are that it has something to do with that seeing as its a post 86' car (the year almost everyone switched over to computer controled fuel injection here in the us and it just went from there)
If none of this advice fixes your problem take it to a dealer and bite the bullet, otherwise your car eventually will.
The normal solution to this problem is to check/replace: oil change,air filter,pcv valve,plugs,wires,distributor cap and rotor,bottle of injector cleaner,fuel filter,check fluids
Yea I have done almost everything on that list, actually every single thing except pcv valve, whats annoying is no one knows, they are all clueless. I am not using low quality fuel, I was told water in the fuel, or lower octane, I have been putting nothing but premo in it for the past few weeks. The only thing that makes less sense for it to be the computer is the fact that it will not do it until the engine warms up. I take that back it may still be doing it, but its no where near noticeable. It will not backfire unless I just jam the throttle down when its misfirng, then about 10 seconds later it will backfire. It does do it in other gears, but because the car is accelerating so much in 2nd I feel it alot more there, and when it starts misfiring, it will literally throw me forward in the seat, almost as if I had hit the breaks. -- thats on a bad day. Whatever it is, it is heat related. Once the engine warms up good, say at a few stoplights back to back, it will start doing it, every time. Again thanks for your help guys
Oh and the thread you linked, that guy is talking about reving the engine up sitting, my car will not do it unless it is under load. It revs just fine all the time, even if it just misfired, If i was to hit the clutch in and rev it, it would rev without a problem, its only under load and heat really.
Fuel is too rich combined with a high temperature causes pre detonation. Based off of what you said any of the following can fix your problem(or a combination):
Adjust cam timing or reprogram computer to the correct timings based off pre detonation.
Use lower quality fule to prevent pre detonation
Reduce the compression
Reduce the internal tempature
Actually if you use a fuel that is to high of quality it will simply not burn correctly and will cause shit to build up in the pistons. It can also cause the problem he is having. Using higher quality fuel will improve MPG and HP but you need to reprogram the engine computer to use it.
If you use a fuel of too low quality you can have start problems and will lose performance. For example my boat on premium will have problems starting from cold. If I put 110 octane mixed with 92 at 50/50 it will work correctly.
XxMastagunzxX
03-05-2010, 02:51 PM
Just check the things I said.
Spasm
03-05-2010, 02:59 PM
Well It says to use the premo right on the speedometer. So thats what I am using because that is what it says to use. I am taking it to an honda acura specialist wednesday, they charge 70 dollars just to diagnose the problem though, so it is not going to be cheap :( When my mechanic changed the plugs, he said it looked like the engine was not burning too rich, just because of how the plugs looked.
Kavinsky
03-05-2010, 03:47 PM
tell him to check the entire system if it was just this or that it would have been fixed by now, you cant diagnose it based on one part.
Maybe its doing the opposite, too much air and too little fuel.
Spasm
03-10-2010, 09:24 AM
Not exactly sure what the mechanic told me on the phone, but they found like 3 problems, something to do with an O2 sensor that someone put in wrong. She told me that a o-ring was leaking oil onto this O2 sensor and was messing it up. I believe this is what she said, and there is something else, and I cannot remember what it is. Something to do with the timing belt. I dunno but I'm looking at 350 right now without the timing belt problem fixed.
Not exactly sure what the mechanic told me on the phone, but they found like 3 problems, something to do with an O2 sensor that someone put in wrong. She told me that a o-ring was leaking oil onto this O2 sensor and was messing it up. I believe this is what she said, and there is something else, and I cannot remember what it is. Something to do with the timing belt. I dunno but I'm looking at 350 right now without the timing belt problem fixed.
Ac's and Honda's seem to have this problem frequently (with the o-rings leaking). As for the timing belt, it probably slipped or was worn out. Despite the 140k mileage indicates it isn't time to change it, problems will always arise and 99% of my engine issues that I had with my old Integra was always the timing belt or o-ring. This is probably why your car was hesitating and not wanting to REV up correctly.
BTW I noticed your using premo on an LS? I had a GS-R and that used premo, but an old friend of mine was using regular on her LS...
Spasm
03-10-2010, 11:53 AM
Ac's and Honda's seem to have this problem frequently (with the o-rings leaking). As for the timing belt, it probably slipped or was worn out. Despite the 140k mileage indicates it isn't time to change it, problems will always arise and 99% of my engine issues that I had with my old Integra was always the timing belt or o-ring. This is probably why your car was hesitating and not wanting to REV up correctly.
BTW I noticed your using premo on an LS? I had a GS-R and that used premo, but an old friend of mine was using regular on her LS...
They said the timing belt had nothing to do with the misfirng, I called them back and got more details. Whats happening is someone wired in the 02 sensor manually. The plug was missing. It was spliced in using electrical tape. So whats happening is my engine is warming up and when it gets hot, it leaks out the o-ring onto the wiring of the O2 sensor. So the O2 sensor is causing crazy fuel to air combination that in turn is causing the problem. They told me that the timing belt needs changed but it was not causing the problem, and that I could get it fixed there or later. I will prob get my bro to do it because this place charges so much money. My LS def says premium unleaded fuel only on the speedometer.
They said the timing belt had nothing to do with the misfirng, I called them back and got more details. Whats happening is someone wired in the 02 sensor manually. The plug was missing. It was spliced in using electrical tape. So whats happening is my engine is warming up and when it gets hot, it leaks out the o-ring onto the wiring of the O2 sensor. So the O2 sensor is causing crazy fuel to air combination that in turn is causing the problem. They told me that the timing belt needs changed but it was not causing the problem, and that I could get it fixed there or later. I will prob get my bro to do it because this place charges so much money. My LS def says premium unleaded fuel only on the speedometer.
Honda has this habit in telling you to change the timing belt 20ks earlier.
XxMastagunzxX
03-10-2010, 03:51 PM
Yeah but if your timing belt breaks and your motor happens to be an interference motor then you can fuck it up bad.
They said the timing belt had nothing to do with the misfirng, I called them back and got more details. Whats happening is someone wired in the 02 sensor manually. The plug was missing. It was spliced in using electrical tape. So whats happening is my engine is warming up and when it gets hot, it leaks out the o-ring onto the wiring of the O2 sensor. So the O2 sensor is causing crazy fuel to air combination that in turn is causing the problem. They told me that the timing belt needs changed but it was not causing the problem, and that I could get it fixed there or later. I will prob get my bro to do it because this place charges so much money. My LS def says premium unleaded fuel only on the speedometer.
Your catalytic converter could be stopped up. It could be the crankshaft position sensor. See if you can find a used one. Maybe an o2 sensor problem? Also check your ignition coil and Ignition control module.
I win.
Spasm
03-10-2010, 04:22 PM
Yeah but if your timing belt breaks and your motor happens to be an interference motor then you can fuck it up bad.
I win.
I know about the belt thing, but they charge too much to do it, I just needed them for their dianostic ability really, me and my bro can do a timing belt and he won't charge me much at all, if anything. Just notcied something wierd, LS models are supposed to redline at 6800 rpms and my in dash speedometer redlines at 8k rpm, makes me wonder if someone changed the speedometer to the gsr model
Actually that is why I was going to say that if you got it used you can not take anything at face value b/c any part may have been changed in the past or even the computer could have been reprogrammed to who knows what octane. But yea the leak and o2 sensor make seance and that is what they were saying in the forums I read. I just assumed that those had been checked/replaced properly. The places you went before should have been able to figure out what your problem was as that is a "normal" issue. I would recommend not to go to those places again. This is also why my family has started using the dealership more. They actually offer good competitive prices but they for us at least have known what they are doing and fixed our problems.
XxMastagunzxX
03-11-2010, 03:53 PM
The dealerships are the "professionals, top of the line mechanics."
Spasm
03-11-2010, 09:43 PM
Actually that is why I was going to say that if you got it used you can not take anything at face value b/c any part may have been changed in the past or even the computer could have been reprogrammed to who knows what octane. But yea the leak and o2 sensor make seance and that is what they were saying in the forums I read. I just assumed that those had been checked/replaced properly. The places you went before should have been able to figure out what your problem was as that is a "normal" issue. I would recommend not to go to those places again. This is also why my family has started using the dealership more. They actually offer good competitive prices but they for us at least have known what they are doing and fixed our problems.
Yea I know, I took it to 4 different locations and finally to a specialist, to me the other places seemed like they were just guessing. I'd rather spend the money to get it diagnosed correctly then spend more money on parts I do not need
Kavinsky
03-12-2010, 05:19 AM
It depends on the car, if it's been out of production for the past 10 years it might be worth it to take it to a specialist rather than a dealer.
Although that might only apply to cars with a strong fan base and owners club.
Integra and the RSX are virtually the same which is now overtaken by the Si. Most Honda parts are interchangeable. A specialist will just do the same shit the dealers do by interchanging other Honda parts. A specialist most of the time will have to call for the parts and the dealer might have the part in house already. Problem is the dealer will charge you more than the specialist.
I know about the belt thing, but they charge too much to do it, I just needed them for their dianostic ability really, me and my bro can do a timing belt and he won't charge me much at all, if anything. Just notcied something wierd, LS models are supposed to redline at 6800 rpms and my in dash speedometer redlines at 8k rpm, makes me wonder if someone changed the speedometer to the gsr model
Did you buy this car used? Someone probably built a motor and chipped it separately. This can cause motor problems in the future. This is why I hate engine swaps and buying modded cars from morons who want to build an imitation of the faster model. The accurate redline GSR = 8100rpm, but fuel cut I believe is 8200rpm-8300rpm. A modded type would mimic it but would greatly expend the motor, pistons, etc.
Spasm
03-12-2010, 12:22 PM
Did you buy this car used? Someone probably built a motor and chipped it separately. This can cause motor problems in the future. This is why I hate engine swaps and buying modded cars from morons who want to build an imitation of the faster model. The accurate redline GSR = 8100rpm, but fuel cut I believe is 8200rpm-8300rpm. A modded type would mimic it but would greatly expend the motor, pistons, etc.
Yea I got it used, I recemtly sold my 01 Bmw 330ci. Got sick and tired of everything breaking on it and forking over 1000s to get it fixed, and the sad thing is the car only had 80k miles. Was also sick of the payments. The previous owner had done tons of stuff to this vehicle. I have not found a part of this car that someone has not been in to. From the fuel pump to O2 sensors to exhaust to distributer and now speedometer. Hell even on the dash you can tell where someone had about 5 extra guages. It's got a cold air intake, headers, alarm system, high airflow cat converter, sway bar, lowered, nice looking rims ( best part of car imo.), I am starting to think maybe an engine swap or at least computer work done. Because I know I have pushed the engine to 8k rpms, and if my car engine is the LS engine it should be rev limiting at around 7300 rpms. Only did it once though just to see how much power it had at max rpms. It used to have one of those loud ass sport mufflers on it, but I switched it to a cheaper one just because I did not like the sound it made. The guy wanted 3k for it, but I got it for 2k because I was bitching about the misfire problem, didn't like the muffler and it was missing a cd player. It needs a little body work as well but nothing major.
Yea I got it used, I recemtly sold my 01 Bmw 330ci. Got sick and tired of everything breaking on it and forking over 1000s to get it fixed, and the sad thing is the car only had 80k miles. Was also sick of the payments. The previous owner had done tons of stuff to this vehicle. I have not found a part of this car that someone has not been in to. From the fuel pump to O2 sensors to exhaust to distributer and now speedometer. Hell even on the dash you can tell where someone had about 5 extra guages. It's got a cold air intake, headers, alarm system, high airflow cat converter, sway bar, lowered, nice looking rims ( best part of car imo.), I am starting to think maybe an engine swap or at least computer work done. Because I know I have pushed the engine to 8k rpms, and if my car engine is the LS engine it should be rev limiting at around 7300 rpms. Only did it once though just to see how much power it had at max rpms. It used to have one of those loud ass sport mufflers on it, but I switched it to a cheaper one just because I did not like the sound it made. The guy wanted 3k for it, but I got it for 2k because I was bitching about the misfire problem, didn't like the muffler and it was missing a cd player. It needs a little body work as well but nothing major.
Sounds like a good buy, but I would def try to get the chip checked because it sounds like he did a complete engine + chip swap. Then to maximize the RPM switched out a GSR dash with the LS which is what most people do when they swap the engine out. My biggest concern with the chip/ engine swap is exactly future motor issues down the road. I dunno if this is your first Acura/Honda, but they are very feeble cars when it comes to modding. Easy to mod, but shitty because some people mod the Honda's where they just implode. In HS through my 2 year in college I was in a Honda/Acura car club where we saw alot of issues coming from used modded cars. The engine/chip swap was a huge issue in future engine problems and it drove us crazy sometimes that we'd have to do complete engine swaps again.
If you want to check the engine the GSR engine is a DOHC VTEC where as the LS is a standard DOHC. The GSR has dual intake, but the LS engine doesn't. Keep in mind the fastest engine is the Type-R which I doubt you have, the GSR is the slowest engine I believe of the VTECs now.
Edit: Fastest car I've been in. Doing 140 in a 30mph street in Puerto Rico.
This is my cousins Supra Turbo. Wish I had focused on the speedometer.
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-=NYS=- C.O.
03-12-2010, 01:24 PM
I have a problem with my car too. I need to turn it in on November. My problem is should I lease another Honda ? LOL
I have a problem with my car too. I need to turn it in on November. My problem is should I lease another Honda ? LOL
The new Accord coupe looks hot. I'm feeling the X-Runner Tacoma Toyota or a regular Tacoma with one of the TRD packages.
uuntiltheendd
03-12-2010, 01:46 PM
I have a problem with my car too. I need to turn it in on November. My problem is should I lease another Honda ? LOL
lease a subaru. wrx, sti, or forester 2.5xt are all nice.
Kavinsky
03-12-2010, 04:01 PM
You can't go by the reputation of any of the brands anymore, every models problems are different.
The best thing to do before buying a car like that is look into its score in consumer reports, that usually gives you a good idea of what your getting into.
I remember reading about that BMV too, the thing had all black dots for that particual years reliability.
uuntiltheendd
03-12-2010, 04:23 PM
if you want a reliable car at a reasonable price, get a subaru. :wtg:
-=NYS=- C.O.
03-12-2010, 05:14 PM
if you want a reliable car at a reasonable price, get a subaru. :wtg:
Subarus are ugly cars. :headache:
uuntiltheendd
03-12-2010, 05:16 PM
Subarus are ugly cars. :headache:
true, most of them are except for 07+ wrx's and sti's.
1701
oh and i forgot you are leasing so you wont need a car that will last you 15+ years. :headache:
The brand of the car has nothing to do with how long it lasts. It's how you drive and how you take care of it. That establishes the durability of your vehicle.
XxMastagunzxX
03-12-2010, 07:12 PM
Sounds like a good buy, but I would def try to get the chip checked because it sounds like he did a complete engine + chip swap. Then to maximize the RPM switched out a GSR dash with the LS which is what most people do when they swap the engine out. My biggest concern with the chip/ engine swap is exactly future motor issues down the road. I dunno if this is your first Acura/Honda, but they are very feeble cars when it comes to modding. Easy to mod, but shitty because some people mod the Honda's where they just implode. In HS through my 2 year in college I was in a Honda/Acura car club where we saw alot of issues coming from used modded cars. The engine/chip swap was a huge issue in future engine problems and it drove us crazy sometimes that we'd have to do complete engine swaps again.
If you want to check the engine the GSR engine is a DOHC VTEC where as the LS is a standard DOHC. The GSR has dual intake, but the LS engine doesn't. Keep in mind the fastest engine is the Type-R which I doubt you have, the GSR is the slowest engine I believe of the VTECs now.
He should swap an h22 or k20 in it.
Edit: Fastest car I've been in. Doing 140 in a 30mph street in Puerto Rico.
This is my cousins Supra Turbo. Wish I had focused on the speedometer.
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I've been 161 in a 1992 Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo. :icon_mrgreen: Not my car BTW.
I have a problem with my car too. I need to turn it in on November. My problem is should I lease another Honda ? LOL
If you want a Japanese car then get a Nissan, Mazda, Honda, or Subaru IMO.
Integra and the RSX are virtually the same which is now overtaken by the Si. Most Honda parts are interchangeable. A specialist will just do the same shit the dealers do by interchanging other Honda parts. A specialist most of the time will have to call for the parts and the dealer might have the part in house already. Problem is the dealer will charge you more than the specialist.
In Japan the rsx was the Honda Integra.
In Japan the rsx was the Honda Integra.
In Japan, Acura isn't even a marketable car until later this year
uuntiltheendd
03-12-2010, 08:56 PM
The brand of the car has nothing to do with how long it lasts. It's how you drive and how you take care of it. That establishes the durability of your vehicle.
did somebody say the brand of a car establishes how long it lasts? lol at that person.
XxMastagunzxX
03-12-2010, 09:00 PM
I know this Loka. :icon_mrgreen:
Spasm
03-12-2010, 11:16 PM
Well it still fucking does it, got my car back today, I'm pretty pissed, 400 dollar repair bill and it still does not work correctly, still does same shit.
XxMastagunzxX
03-12-2010, 11:29 PM
Take the shit back and say it's not fixed.
Spasm
03-12-2010, 11:43 PM
Take the shit back and say it's not fixed.
going to lol
Andrew_Pavlik
03-13-2010, 12:43 AM
I've been 161 in a 1992 Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo. Not my car BTW.
157 myself in a 04' BMW m3, but this was on I81 south of Hazelton, PA coming home from an auction. Not exactly the easiest place to do that.
And as for leasing a car, for someone who has been in the business for 7yrs, if you lease a car your an idiot, and no you have absolutely no way to defend other wise. "Oh I know, let me pay per month for what I would almost pay per month if I got a new car loan but instead let them limit my miles and at the end of 5 yrs instead of owning it, they could then sell it to me for way more then it's really worth or trade it in for a newer model while I never build any real equity"
Do yourself a favor, compare banks and the what the dealership would offer you(they often have deals with certain banks) on just getting a new car loan, you are MUCH better off.
As for what to get? It really depends on your style, however first establish your budget then need. Look up a bunch of consumer reports, forums and do plenty of test drives.
For someone who has sold and seen more cars then any of you most likely ever have it's funny to me to look at some of the car "advice" you give on here. Some of you know what your talking about and others it's pretty simple that the only thing you know about cars is watching a few fast and furious movies and reading forums on cars your a fanboy of.
Well it still fucking does it, got my car back today, I'm pretty pissed, 400 dollar repair bill and it still does not work correctly, still does same shit.
Yeeeah, deja vu!
Did that with my car last year, poured $2,000 down the hole in one year before I finally said fuck it and got a new (used) car that I couldn't afford. :p Still probably cheaper than repairs on the old one, I guess...
Since NYS lives in the city, having a car permanently is kind of useless.
Kavinsky
03-13-2010, 04:53 PM
Not really if its made out of good quality steel, bulletproof tech, hasn't been left outside to rust away and
has been taken care of throughout its life they do last that long.
Spasm what exactly does the repair bill say they did to it?
-=NYS=- C.O.
03-13-2010, 06:34 PM
157 myself in a 04' BMW m3, but this was on I81 south of Hazelton, PA coming home from an auction. Not exactly the easiest place to do that.
And as for leasing a car, for someone who has been in the business for 7yrs, if you lease a car your an idiot, and no you have absolutely no way to defend other wise. "Oh I know, let me pay per month for what I would almost pay per month if I got a new car loan but instead let them limit my miles and at the end of 5 yrs instead of owning it, they could then sell it to me for way more then it's really worth or trade it in for a newer model while I never build any real equity"
Do yourself a favor, compare banks and the what the dealership would offer you(they often have deals with certain banks) on just getting a new car loan, you are MUCH better off.
As for what to get? It really depends on your style, however first establish your budget then need. Look up a bunch of consumer reports, forums and do plenty of test drives.
For someone who has sold and seen more cars then any of you most likely ever have it's funny to me to look at some of the car "advice" you give on here. Some of you know what your talking about and others it's pretty simple that the only thing you know about cars is watching a few fast and furious movies and reading forums on cars your a fanboy of.
Financing a car is the worst investment ever. After paying off a car for 5 or 6 years thousands of dollars and finding out your car is worth shit. Who is the real idiot ? I don't drive far, just like a brand new car every three years. Now if you have thousands of dollars to spend without financing then more power to ya..
Spasm
03-18-2010, 08:22 AM
Zero you may be right with your initial guess, the guy told me he thinks its the computer. Someone put an aftermarket computer in it and had work done on the computer. He thinks that the computer is not tuned correctly when the engine is warm. Going to get expert opinion on that at a computer tuner place soon
Zero you may be right with your initial guess, the guy told me he thinks its the computer. Someone put an aftermarket computer in it and had work done on the computer. He thinks that the computer is not tuned correctly when the engine is warm. Going to get expert opinion on that at a computer tuner place soon
THAT'S WHAT I SAID TOO!!! Granted after Zero, but this is what idiots who mod Honda do!
uuntiltheendd
03-18-2010, 12:37 PM
i need some advice from you guys or girls who know about buying cars.
right now im financing a car and idk if ill be able to keep making the payments. i want to know what kind of options i have in order to get out of financing. if anybody can help me out with this please pm me and i can give you more info on my situation.
Spasm
03-18-2010, 12:49 PM
THAT'S WHAT I SAID TOO!!! Granted after Zero, but this is what idiots who mod Honda do!
Yup took that chip out, runs like a champ. LOL, looked like another computer because some fool spray painted the damn thing... why in the fuck you spray paint something someone is never going to see if def a mystery
XxMastagunzxX
03-18-2010, 02:41 PM
If you would have known it wasn't the original computer and told us that we could have helped you faster.
If you would have known it wasn't the original computer and told us that we could have helped you faster.
He didn't know. Someone told him especially after he mentioned that the engine revs like a GSR so I got suspicious someone swapped chips and it doesn't correspond with the engine build.
Spasm
03-18-2010, 04:05 PM
He didn't know. Someone told him especially after he mentioned that the engine revs like a GSR so I got suspicious someone swapped chips and it doesn't correspond with the engine build.
Yea I had no clue. Plus to me a computer problem didn't seem to make sense with it being heat related, but that was it. It seems as if every inch of this car has had someone in it at one point. It's disappointing that it cost me all that money and it was just a damn chip. lol
Kavinsky
03-18-2010, 05:38 PM
Well atleast the fucking thing is fixed now and your cars like new with all the money you put into it.
Almost all modern cars are controled by computer chips now. That's part of the reason I like the older carbureted models better, Atleast then you can for the most part fix them by yourself if its running funny.
That and they look better.
What exactly did the chip change in the engine, was I right about the fuel to air mixture?
XxMastagunzxX
03-18-2010, 05:44 PM
Kavinsky the older cars don't drive themselves either....old cars FTW!!!
Kavinsky
03-19-2010, 12:20 AM
I think there's only one car Ive heard of that essentially drives itself, the R35 skyline.
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