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Thread: Hunting for next fall

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    Quote Originally Posted by -=NYS=- C.O. View Post
    Well as far as firearm permits are concerned...I buy all my firearms with my badge. As for the hunting permit..I have to take a 6 hour safety course then pay for a permit afterwards..I know about hunting areas in which theres plenty in New York State.
    Im planning on hunting for whitetail deer. I thought about buying a shotgun for turkey hunting but I heard its way harder than hunting for deer.
    So yeah...I was looking at either the Browning or Sako. Just wanted some input on anyone that has experience in this matter.
    look up the browning x-bolt then. it won rifle of the year NRA golden bullseye awards.

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    Quote Originally Posted by deprodigy View Post
    look up the browning x-bolt then. it won rifle of the year NRA golden bullseye awards.
    I was leaning towards it. Its a little expensive but I can afford it. Fuck it ! I want the good shit when I go out there...
    Just dont walk around the woods with a fuzzy tail as a hat when Im around. LoL

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    How about an old springfield 03 A3? they we're about 400 when I got mine, but they've gone up to about 600 - 800 now.

    make sure you try the trigger and see how it fits you before you buy it and if its a stock one that hasn't been turned into a sporter and still has the steel buttplate on the end, putting a slip on recoil pad REALLY helps.

    this ones just like mine
    http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu68.htm
    plus this on the buttstock, its not the same brand I use but its close.
    http://www.midwesthuntersoutlet.com/...HER_SLIP_.aspx

    scope wise theres two things you could do, drill and tap it or put on a b square mount so you can still use the striper clips
    http://secure.armorholdings.com/b-sq...ringfield.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kavinsky View Post
    How about an old springfield 03 A3? they we're about 400 when I got mine, but they've gone up to about 600 - 800 now.

    make sure you try the trigger and see how it fits you before you buy it and if its a stock one that hasn't been turned into a sporter and still has the steel buttplate on the end, putting a slip on recoil pad REALLY helps.

    this ones just like mine
    http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu68.htm
    plus this on the buttstock, its not the same brand I use but its close.
    http://www.midwesthuntersoutlet.com/...HER_SLIP_.aspx

    scope wise theres two things you could do, drill and tap it or put on a b square mount so you can still use the striper clips
    http://secure.armorholdings.com/b-sq...ringfield.html
    Wow that rifle is really old. Thanks for the info !

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    I forgot to mention this but theres two kinds of barrels for them 2 grove, and 4 grove, both right hand twist, I don't know if it makes a difference accuracy wise but with my 4 grove and a little concentration I can easily take out a clay pigeon at 100 yards with the stock iron sights.

    (To check you have to look down the barrel with the action open and count the groves, atleast thats what my father said when he checked it for me)

    Which the reason why I haven't put the b square mount and the scope I got for it on it. if your hunting in a dark area try and go for a european scope, unlike an american ones they start to glow like a set of night sights as it gets dark.

    Since hunting after dark is allowed in some parts of europe because some of crop destroying animals move at night and the farmers hire hunters to deal with them.

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    CO, its very important you don't have your big toe on the trigger and the gun isn't loaded when you look in the barrel to count the grooves. if I were you I would see if straight up or dual do it for you. good lookin out man.

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    No shit sherlock!

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